Laying brick oven with their own handsAugust 9, 2011
A stove built by hand can be useful in the country or in a country house - that is, where there is no central heating. There are many options for homemade stoves, which may vary in shape, size and patterns of the chimney. This article gives an example of a small brick kiln, which even a novice master can make. Even if there are no special skills in laying furnaces, the work will take a little time.
A small stove occupies only 0.4 square meters, and is made of bricks set flat or on the edge. Such a stove retains well and gives off heat. Moreover, its construction is simplified, because the stove does not have a lot of weight, the foundation is not required. But at the same time, the floor under the stove should be made of thick boards, fixed on strong logs.
It is possible to consider this design of the stove as an alternative to the stove, but it is more functional and has a heating part (there are smoke dampers) and a cooking part in the form of a cast-iron stove. If necessary, this stove can perform the function of a fireplace with a smoke tooth.
The oven is made quite quickly, the work takes on the strength of the day. For a start, it is better to heat the stove with paper and wood chips rather than logs, since due to the sharp temperature drop, the solution of the new masonry may become covered with cracks and this will lead to additional air leaks or smoke. Before starting up the furnace, allow the stove to dry out. This will take about a week.
In order to make a brick oven with your own hands you will need the following materials: 60 pieces of red kiln brick, 37 pieces of fireclay brick, 20 liters of clay mortar, a blower door, a grate, a cast iron stove with burners, a furnace door, and a latch.
How to make a stove with his own hands
- To begin with, we choose a place for the furnace and put on it, optionally, a polyethylene film, hydrosol, roofing felt or glassine with dimensions 78x53 cm.
- Pour this litter and carefully level the dry sand with a layer of 1 cm thick.
- We lay the first row consisting of 12 bricks (the first position in the figure) directly on the sand layer, without using anything for fastening. Then the row of bricks is leveled on a level with strict observance of horizontal position.The layout of the oven rows is shown in the figure.
- On the first row we apply a thin layer of clay and install a blower door. It is necessary to wrap it with a wet asbestos cord or asbestos cardboard. After this, we fix the door with wire and begin to prick the second row.
- The third row of the furnace is laid of fireclay bricks and set the grate from above. We mount it above the bottom end and after the final formation of this series.
- The fourth row is made of brick laid on the edge, and inside the chimney we lay the supports for the internal partition of the furnace. Bricks of the back wall are laid without clay and with a small protrusion outward - these are the so-called expelling bricks.
- Install the furnace door. Beforehand, it is necessary to wrap it with an asbestos cord so that it opens in the bottom-up direction. We fix it with wire and temporarily fix it with two bricks. One is installed on the back of the butt, and the second is placed on the brick and the door on top.
- We spread the fifth row out of the brick flat, repeating the contour of the previous one, and again lay the sixth row out of the brick with an edge. Then we rub the walls of the chimney with a wet rag and proceed to the seventh row.
- We spread it again flat, starting with bricks at 3/4 for a bunch with the next rows.From the two bricks set by the edge, we perform the back wall.
- The eighth row of the furnace must close the furnace door and end above it with two bricks. It is in this row that it is necessary to install a beveled brick above the furnace in order for the flame in the furnace to be displaced to the center of the cast-iron cooking hob, if the furnace performs the role of a fireplace with an open door for the furnace.
- Before laying out the ninth row, you must lay out a moistened asbestos cord to seal the joints between the hob and brick. The slab is not laid on the clay, since the cast iron and clay have different coefficients of thermal expansion. We lay out the ninth row with a slight offset backwards to support the open door.
- In the tenth row, we begin to form a chimney with expansion back. The design of this furnace does not imply a mounted brick pipe with an extension to the top, since such a pipe can change the center of gravity of the entire furnace. We make a chimney a pier or a follower from a light movement.
- In the eleventh row we place the valve with a seal with an asbestos cord (it is coated with clay).
- Then there is a chimney of a quarter brick, which fits in with a metal pipe. If the chimney moves to the side, then it is necessary to make the overlap on three brick rows.
- We take out the expelling bricks in the fourth row and clean the lower chimney compartment from the mud that got there during construction.
- This is followed by whitewashing the stove. We protect the walls with the film and the metal parts of the stove. We prepare the solution for whitewashing with the addition of blue and a small amount of milk so that it does not turn yellow. We make the entire furnace, and especially the joints of the brick pipe and its metal part, as well as the junction of bricks and a cast-iron cooking surface.
- So that the sand laid under the brick does not spill out, we make an L-shaped front-heating sheet to close the gap between the floor and the first row of brick.
- After that, we beat the baseboard on the edge of the kiln, which also protects against sand eruption.
- After the furnace test furnace with wood chips and paper, leave it with open burners and a door for a week or more to dry.